There’s nothing like Seville’s old-school tapas bars, but I’ve found myself returning to eateries conducive to restful solo dining—at least on days when I don’t feel like standing or jockeying for space. Eater’s list of the city’s best restaurants has been a fantastic resource (I highly recommend checking out their guides while traveling), and through it I discovered a real gem: Barra Castizo.
Like ConTenedor, Barra Castizo reworks and elevates classic regional flavors with care. While most of its seating is at tables, it also has a generous bar that takes reservations, making it ideal for dining alone.
On my first visit—just days after arriving in Seville, when everything still felt indulgent—I ordered the roasted Rossini Iberian pork with foie gras and creamy papoyo cheese. It was unapologetically rich, the kind of dish that insists you slow down. I did, stretching the pleasure of the meal as long as possible. I began with toast topped with almadraba tuna, mustard, and truffle mayonnaise—a satisfying clash of textures and flavors—along with crispy cod fritters. Cod is one of the region’s signature ingredients, and tasting it again felt oddly like a homecoming.
Sitting at the bar also offers a clear view of the fresh seafood of the day, displayed prominently behind the counter. On my second visit—last night—it was the fish case that tempted me into ordering the corvina with bilbaína sauce, a bright, garlicky mix of vinegar and olive oil. I couldn’t resist adding a tapa-sized order of croquetas as well. (I make no claim that these dinners have been especially good for my health. I eat most of my fruits and vegetables at home, largely via the bottled gazpacho in my fridge.)
There are many other things on the menu I’m dying to try—I’m particularly curious about the carbonara Spanish omelet—but I’d be embarrassed to eat it alone. Even I have my limits.






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