ConTenedor: Still a Favorite in Seville

Living in New York, I’m used to businesses turning over quickly. Every time I return to Chelsea, where I had my first apartment, the stores and restaurants seem completely different—old favorites gone, new ones taking their place.

I’m grateful that Seville hasn’t changed too much since my last visit in 2019. I’m especially relieved that my favorite restaurant, ConTenedor, is still open and very much thriving. Located on the northern edge of Seville’s historic center, it offers a memorable “slow food” experience. Long, leisurely dinners may be easiest with a group—as they were on previous trips with my husband, Donald, and my parents—but the staff have made me feel just as welcome during my two recent solo meals.

The interior is contemporary yet warm. There’s no fixed menu; instead, a server brings a large chalkboard to your table listing the dishes of the day, sometimes perched atop a chair (or two). The wine list is impressive, and the staff are genuinely happy to make recommendations.

After nearly two weeks of indulging in classic but predictable local staples—jamón ibérico, salmorejo, fried fish—ConTenedor feels refreshing, offering deeply rooted regional cooking with a creative, modern twist.

When I visited last week, I over-ordered. Craving vegetables—which can be surprisingly hard to find on Sevillian menus—I chose a hearty salad of sweet potato and bitter greens alongside a crunchy rice with duck. I felt guilty leaving part of my entrée uneaten.

Last night’s meal was even better—and more surprising. I began with a tomato and mango tartare over ajoblanco, an Andalusian garlic soup, followed by black cuttlefish rice with shrimp and an algae sauce. The sauce’s vivid blue color was a shock, unlike anything I’d ever encountered on a plate. (“Is that glitter?” Donald asked after I sent him a photo. “That doesn’t look appetizing,” my mom said.”) One bite quickly put any doubts to rest. It tasted like the sea and, like everything else ConTenedor serves, very fresh.

I’ll be back at ConTenedor before returning to New York at the end of the month—and next time, I’ll try to leave room for their homemade desserts.